Research: Contemporary Curls and Frizz

[1]

When looking at contemporary versions of hairstyles that incorporate the methods we have been learning in the Technical sessions I have tried to think about the colour as well, this isn't overly important when looking at the structure and techniques used but I think overall it gives better impression of a style influenced by the era.

This image to the right stood out to me straight away due to different factors. It has all of the technique we've been using except buns. You can see the texture is frizzy and crimped with flyaway hair on the sides giving it a messy soft finish but the top is very high and would contain padding beneath to create this. Although it is not in a heart shape I still this this is relevant because if the overall height.
At the front of the hairline the hair has been plaited in sections and the hairline is high giving it the Elizabeth I feel.
The makeup is also interesting because the model has no eyebrows again reiterating the inspiration,

[2]

Although Elizabeth I didn't necessarily go as tall with her hair I found a portrait of Elizabeth Stuart painted in 1606, not long after Elizabeth's reign.
It has a taller hairstyle like the one above.
The texture isn't really that visible but I feel like it's definitely the historical equivalent and still relevant.
I would have thought that the hair would have needed a lot of texture to it to be able to old this style and that it wasn't really as smooth as this portrait would lead you to believe, unlike photography, it is hard to really decipher details from portraiture because it is at the artists and sitters discretion to alter the aspects whereas in photography it is a truer representation and editing would be more obvious too.

[3]

Another image I found which was really relevant to the Elizabethan era. This one is extremely similar to all those of Elizabeth I in terms of texture, shape and colour.
The hair is relatively rounded and all swept back, what I was looking at here was the use of Jewellery in her hair, it isn't quite as extravagant as the Elizabethan ones but I think it's a good example of incorporating some kind of adornment. The jewellery in the hair also matches the neck piece and clothing too.
It's like a darker version of Elizabeth if there was one, certain small things could be changed to increase the look of Elizabethan but it still looks very regal.
Like Elizabeth's hair this one is tightly pin curled and the texture is almost spot on what you see on her portraiture with some frizz in there too.

[4]

The Pelican portrait features Elizabeth's hair a lot smaller than usual like the contemporary image above and the curls are very defined in this image, this is why sometimes as I said before portraits can be misleading, I think the hair was an important part of this portrait unlike the one above of Elizabeth Stuart because it appears more time has been spent detailing the texture.
I chose this one to compare to the image above because she has a piece of jewellery coming down onto her forehead, in comparison to the contemporary image this isn't a lot but does show how it wasn't just all always up in the hair and how the inspiration for bringing it down onto the face has been used, but elaborated on.
Elizabeth however doesn't ever cover her entire forehead because it was fashionable to have a big one. If this wasn't so she very well might have worn her jewellery like the image above!
It is similar though in the sense of technique and structure with use of tight curls.





[1] BARRY .J., 2014. golden plaited texture updo [digital image] [Viewed on 30th nov 2015] Available from: https://s3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com/rbi-communities/wp-content/uploads/sites/6/2014/05/2014-golden-plaited-texture-updo.jpg

[2] ROBERT PEAKE THE ELDER, 1606. Elizabeth Stuart [digital image] [Viewed on 30th nov 2015] Available from: https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/4c/4c/0b/4c4c0bf339fead12084d05f282e3ddd7.jpg

[3] YEE . A., 2015. redhead hairstyle with tight pincurls [digital image] [Viewed on 30th nov 2015] Available from: https://s3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com/rbi-communities/wp-content/uploads/sites/6/2015/10/2015-redhead-hairstyle-with-tight-pin-curls.jpg

[4] NICHOLAS HILLIARD, 1575. 'Pelican' portrait [digital image] [Viewed on 30th nov 2015] Available from: https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/f5/e1/5f/f5e15f548a3ee7c0178d2b30e7754c4c.jpg

Technical - Rick-Racking technique!

A new technique that I'd seen before and never tried was I believe called Rick-Racking which involves weaving the hair over a pin in a figure of eight and applying heat to create a frizzing effect.

I liked this effect because I think it made a better frizz than the crimping although harder to achieve and more time consuming.
It's a good technique and after a few you get the hang of it relatively quickly you can also change the frizz with this one though, whether you wrap the hair tighter or looser and the size of your pins will make the frizz looser or tighter.

I did this just on the front section of my Katie head to test the technique, I found only a small amount was needed to add to the overall look. I crimped, backcombed and put up the rest of the hair and I used the very fine rick-racking from the front section to lay over the top and enhance the texture further. I don't think doing this all over is necessary if it is only a top layer of a hairstyle.
This technique did leave around half an inch at the hairline that wasn't frizzy, I think its easier to get closer with the crimpers.
For time management I think I will use the crimpers in my design if needed because I think it's just easier and quicker to create the effect. If I did use this I would only do it on specific areas of hair.

I looked one of Oscar De La Renta's photoshoots which incorporated rick-racking, it was interesting to see how this was used in modern fashion and in popular culture on a runway.

Rick-Racking in model's hair
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Finished result of Rick-racking, as you can see this was used all over the head and creates a very soft fine frizz effect whilst the roots remain straight.
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Technical - Crimping and creating shapes without padding.

Curling and crimping the hair is all about preparation for your desired outcome and helps with the overall outcome and makes the hair easier to work with.

Crimping hair is not something I have done a whole lot of because it's fallen way out of fashion, although  some celebrities have been seen with it from time to time but it never makes a comeback.
Crimping is a good method to get texture into the hair especially the course frizz that Elizabethan styles used.

Crimping wasn't that difficult to do, getting to the root was the hardest part as the tools are quite large and you risk burning the scalp. you can use a comb underneath your section at the root to help with this and create a barrier between your model and your styling tool.



I didn't get a photo of the crimping I did on the katie head before I brushed it out so here's a different image that I did on Billie my model in another session.

After crimping I brushed out all the hair and got a really large frizzy effect which I quite liked.
So after this prep it gave me a much easier texture of hair to work with for making the shape. The hair is a lot more mouldable with texture.

The next task was to create an Elizabethan hair shape without using padding so I sectioned off my block and backcombed it to create the volume I needed. It's important to backcomb correctly too, starting just above the roots and pushing your comb in and down on your section, repeating as you work up to the tips. Don't start at the ends of the hair because you won't get any stability and that is what backcombing is for, to create a foundation.

I like to really make the backcombing firm at the roots and this also helps gripping hair by providing a firm base for hold.

After backcombing the hair I was then able to mould the hair into the shape I wanted using my tailcomb to blend the sections together, create the shape I need and grip it into place.

I did this on both sides of the head and then with any hair at the back that was left we were free to do whatever with it, create a bun, plait it or just make it into a design, I chose to make a little vertical roll which I thought complemented the style.

 

 

 I really liked practicing with the crimpers and creating texture, it's something I haven't done before and i will probably use again to create volume underneath styles. I have done simple hair-ups and more modern styles but this was very new and different. I enjoyed how the hair was easier to manipulate into the style and it was interesting to see how the texture affected this. If this was done on hair that wasn't crimped it would have been more difficult.
A little bit of me felt like I was heating because the texture hides a lot of things, when something is supposed to look a bit messy it's easier to be finished. If this was on straight hair it would have been really difficult to smooth and create a nice sleek finish.

I didn't encounter any difficulties creating this look and I was happy with my finished outcome.
The backcombing and frizzing technique is definitely something to use in my own designs.

Technical - Curling

Practical session on curling hair.

The curls we used were spiral curls and horizontal curls using a medium sized tong.

Sectioning the hair is important in tonging hair firstly to keep your style neat and clean and to be able to work methodically and it also helps with timing too, if you try to do a few very large sections your curls will not be to the standard that you want and will more than likely drop out.
A large section will heat the hair that is nearer to the tong itself and closer tot he heat and if the hair is too thick the heat wont be enough on the outside of your section. Heating the curl unevenly will result in a poor finish. Also on this note, the ends of the hair and the underneath of your section will have been in contact with the heat source for far too long and you risk burning the hair before it has all heated enough. To avoid this a small section will wrap around the tong more evenly and wont have to be in contact for as long to create your curl, preserving the condition of the hair and creating a longer lasting neater curl.

Also before applying any kind of heat to the hair you should carry out a consultation on the condition of the hair, some hair will require higher heat, whereas some will not need as much and will still curl well.

We practiced this on the Katie head and used on side for spiral curls and the other for the barrel curls.
The end result of this was that you will still get a similar effect on both sides but the horizontal curls allow you to add lift to the root of the hair and finish with a more voluminous style. Its important to change direction of your curls as well or you may end up with one big curl as they will all sit together.
For looser curls you can just let the hair drop and sit on its own and the hair will drop as its cooling but to preserve a tighter longer lasting curl we wrapped the hair around on itself whilst still hot and gripped it in place whilst it cooled. This is essentially a dry set, the hair structure isnt changed from wet to dry but it is heated and cooled in a certain shape.

This side of my katie head was the spiral curls and as you can see the hair lacks volume at the roots in comparison with the other side but the curls are still neat and hold up well.

  

This side of the katie head was the barrel curls and there is a definite difference to how the curls sit, they tend to stay in the barrel shape and lift up at the root.
I preferred this side to the other as I am a big fan of big hair to lift at the roots is important to me.











The same technique we used can be seen in the video below.

And this is what you shouldn't do...

Research - Elizabethan and Modern Hair with Accessories

The types of ornaments used in the Elizabethan hair seems to vary a lot, I think basically if they could put it in the hair an get it to stay there they would.
They would use necklaces draped over the hair and down onto the forehead which would create a widows peak, They would use any type of precious stone they had because it showed off their wealth to have it on display.

Wire structures were used to create the shape underneath the hair if it was more elaborate, padding wouldn't have been enough to hold the shape.
Other things added into the hair would be feathers, ribbons weaved through the hair.
Various types of hair coverings also had a place in the hairstyles so they didn't necessarily have to have such a grand design with the hair, they could cover quite a lot of it with one of the following;
The coif; also known as the 'biggin' and worn by children, made of plain white linen. It was used as a cap as well under elaborate hats to keep hair in place.
The French hood; introduced by the french court by Anne Boleyn. A half moon or crescent style band that slopes away from the face. The edges of these were often adorned with pearls or jewels and a veil covered the back of hair.
The Atifet; Similar to the French hood style but with a heart shaped crescent. Worn by Mary Queen of Scots, with lace trimmings.
The Caul; The Elizabethan hair net. Covering the hair at the back of the head and made of fabric and adorned with jewels.
Various types of plaiting were used for Elizabethan hairstyles and these would also have ribbons and jewels incorporated into them.

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Braiding with Netting and Jewellery

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Example of Renaissance Caul/ Hair Net with pearls.

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French hood with veil at the back (1540)

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This image is the best example of the most elaborate hair accessorising on Queen Elizabeth, 

She has every type and colour of jewel in her hair and a large fascinator type thing on top. Again like her dress which is heavily decorated the hair is done the same way.

I think the modern way of dressing up hair tends to just be for occasions now, rather than the wealthy doing it all the time, its more acceptable to have very done hair more for parties and big events like weddings, however, on the catwalk and in more fashion lead media influences are often taken from the Elizabethan era in terms of what is added into the hair,

It's certainly not the 'done thing' nowadays to wear anything elaborate in the hair on a day to day basis, I think with new and improved cutting techniques the hair has enough style by itself not to have to dress it up so much.

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Wedding hair with necklace style jewellery.

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Plaited up do with adornements

As you can see the more modern hairstyles still encorporate braiding and curls like the Elizabethan ones but they are looser and more natural and the hair is not so desperately taken away from the face.
Any modern accessories unless avant garde are a lot smaller. Nothing looks too heavy or overdone.
Looking at Avant Garde however, in most there are always some kind of apparent influence from Elizabethan hair, whether it be the size or shape or the amount of accessories in the hair, I think because of the extravagance of the Elizabethans it's always a go-to era for inspiration.
I included the image below because it really incorporates everything, braids, frizz, size and chains and ribbons weaving throughout. However the flowers and butterflies don't relate but it shows how some staple influences can be added to.

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ref
ALCHIN .L.K., 2012. Elizabethan era  [online] [Viewed on 10th oct.2015] Available from:  http://www.elizabethan-era.org.uk/elizabethan-hair-styles.htm

Research - Who wears Elizabethan hair?

The Elizabethan Hairstyles we have been looking at and researching for the project brief have been mainly for the more wealthy Elizabethan woman.
Queen Elizabeth had naturally red hair and as the ideal of beauty this would be emulated by nobility, upper class ladies going as far as to colour their hair yellow with a mixture of saffron, cumin seed, celandine and oil.Whether dyed or natural the colouring seen in portraiture tends to be between copper and strawberry blondes.

They are usually curled in some manner whether it be small curls tight to the scalp or loose tendrils with a wave the texture also appears to be quite frizzy and course in a lot of the portraiture. This was mainly due to the large ruffs worn which would require the hair to be swept up.
However the young women of the era would wear their hair long and flowing as a sign of virginity.
The hair at the front of the forehead could be plucked as well to create a larger forehead.
and fringes were an absolute no.

The styles themselves are very structured and elaborate and appear to have a lot of fine detail and intricacy to them, usually being a wig this would be easier for someone to style as i would imagine it takes a lot of time to create the looks.
They tend to have a heart shape to them especially for the royals or ladies.
To add further detail the women would also adorn the hair with precious stones, jewellery and fascinators or hats which would often match their outfit and show off their wealth.

All basic elements of the ideal Elizabethan hairstyle can be see in the Rainbow Portrait of Queen Elizabeth 1.
The frizzy curls on top, tendrils coming down from the back, although this isn't hart shaped, its still symmetrical which is an important factor.
Here we can see that the pearls on her neck are incorporated into the hair and the red stones in the necklace can be seen also.
reiterating how the clothing and hair come together.

I found this portrait of a noble Elizabethan Woman to show how the Queens fashion was emulated by others, in this image we see the popular heart shaped hair in tight curls, the colour is interesting in this one because it looks yellow which would indicate dying.
and again we see the hair decorated similar to her clothing with white lace and pearls.













Ladies of the court and maids of honour would not necessarily always favour the grand curled up do's and they would favour plaiting in various styles with some simple accessories.


In this clip from Elizabeth you can see a lot of variation between the hairstyles of women, from Elizabeth's which is grand to the ladies of the court which are more understated, there's also a moment you can pause to see the back of their hair as well which is interesting.

ref
ALCHIN .L.K., 2012. Elizabethan era  [online] [Viewed on 10th oct.2015] Available from:  http://www.elizabethan-era.org.uk/elizabethan-hair-styles.htm

Elizabeth. 1998 [film] Directed by KAPUR .S.

Technical Buns and Plaits.

So the first introductory lesson to Hair and Postiche involved our brief and a practical session with some simple techniques. 

A standard bun, twist bun, plait bun, staffed plait, French plait and a fishtail plait. 
These were all quite simple but effective techniques which are used a lot within Elizabethan style hair.

This bun was done by creating 4 barrel curls, securing and then blending the sections together using a pin.

This bun was simply a ponytail twisted into position, this is a very easy and quick way to put hair up into a bun, especially if in a hurry.

This is the same as above but plaited beforehand.

Three strand French braid, something I find hard to do but after practicing I was absolutely fine. 

Fishtail braid.

I enjoyed actually doing some practical work and being the first session and it being hairdressing I felt comfortable with having the background. One thing I learnt I need to do is be a lot more gentle with the hair when dressing as opposed to being used to cutting hair where tension is key. 

This is something I will be working towards varying throughout my work and learning how heavy handed or how a softer touch affects the overall outcome of the final look. 

Although I have the previous experience with hair I feel the techniques I will learn will definitely be useful and as well it's always better to learn new ways to do things even if you already have a good idea of what you're doing.