Final assessment plan - Partner

Lauren's Design


Intructions.

1 Begin by sectioning off two inches from around the hairline all the way around the head,
starting at the ear on one side, french plait the hair down to the nape and around to the other ear, the braid should be thicker here and across the front, plait looser to create a thicker effect, once at he starting position, plait the remaining hair and pin underneath the initial plait at the back of the head.

2 Take the top halo section of  remaining hair and seperate into two even sections, leave one inch from the perimeter of both sides, then take the hair, backcomb at the roots for structure and then roll the rat from tips to roots and secure just underneath the parting, repeat on the other side, criss-crossing the pins to secure the rat and hair into place.

3 With the one inch sections, curl the ends using a large tong and leave to cool, then take the section and smooth over the top of the now padded hair, gripping it at the midlengths around the underside of the rat toward the parting where the rat is gripped into place. This hair provides a smooth section to place over the top and because of the length and leaves around 4 inches of curls.
Make sure to leave a section at the back for plaiting.

4. Place the curls at random, spreading them around over the padded hair. Use the small section at te back to plait and sit over the parting area to cover any visible grips, bring this to the front of the padding and bring it back in a 'u' shape to create a teardrop at the front above the halo plait.

5 Spray the hair to hold and add the pins with pearls attached around the halo plait and between the halo plait and padding at random, add them down the center of the hair as well to accentuate the parting between the padding.

Tools-

Pin tail comb
Backbrushing brush
Rats
Pins/grips
Tongs/curlers
Hairspray
Decorative pins.

Practice 2 - Partners design

I began again with the halo plait around the head and this time I made it fatter than previously by pulling some of the sections out a little bit which seperated it slightly. We both liked how this looked because it added a slightly modern twist into it which was the boho messy braiding look that's been popular recently.

The next task was to get two even structures on top of the hair, as we said before we were going to heighten the design by adding rats.
I began by initially putting all the hair into the rats and rolling them up but because we didn’t add any texture through crimping it looked a little bit boring and still needed the curls on top.
I then let the hair down again and curled it all, to then roll back up and planned to use the ends to place over the structure.

I tried to roll the hair into the rat, somehow, without the ends being inside because I wanted to use the curls on the ends and this just didn’t work.
Change of plan, I left out just one inch section from the outside, rolled the rest into the rat and secured by criss-crossing the pins into one another.
The hair left out was just the right length as well that I could take it over the padded hair and pin just on the underside, leaving around 4 inches in length of curled hair that I could then place over the top.

After thinking it through properly this was a better way to do it and make sure I had a secure shape on top. Although I had less curls to work with on top, this didn’t matter because the overall outcome was a lot neater.

I struggled at first with the volume of hair and managing to get it all neatly into the rat, as it wasn’t crimped as well it had to be really neat and smooth so this was a challenge for me as well as working out the simplest way to really secure all the hair and make sure it wasn’t going to move.
Practicing with longer hair and a rat is something that I need to do more as working on the Katie head there is a lot less hair to wrap.
From this I also realised I really needed to practice my French plaiting to make sure it was neat, in terms of sectioning and even throughout.

From this we can create a plan of action to follow for the assessment, which I will be able to use methodically to create the final design.

The overall look I was extremely happy with and it all worked out well considering there were some factors to chop and change.
I feel now I have a good idea of what to use and the steps I need to take to create the look.

I think the design change was a good idea to save time on curling due to the amount of hair and I'm feeling confident for the final assessment.

Final Assessment Plan - Mine

Ross' Design

Tools  -
Crimpers
Tongs
Hairspray
Tail comb
Clips
Grips/Pins
Aqua Palette

Instructions.

1 Begin by crimping the hair all over in small sections. Hairspraying the section beforehand.

2 Isolate 4 small sections on the crown and plait for later.

3 Use the large tongs and beginning at the front of the head from the parting to ears on both sides. Create 3 sausages each side and grip into place, this is the starting point for the rest of the hairstyle to follow.

4 Create sausages around the head and grip into place following your bottom two rolls, work from the front around the sides until you reach the other roll at the opposite side, blend the sections together to create a continuous roll. Repeat this for the second one that wraps round the head.

5. The top two should just go backward until you reach the crown.

6 Take the plaits created on top and cross them over each other and secure to create a 'crown' like structure and spray to finish, add gold Aqua colour to the plaits to add to the 'crown' effect.

Practice 2 - My design

Second practice session.

I reviewed the last time we did my design on my hair and discussed how we could improve it. I changed my design so that it removes some of the hair into plaits which would then be used to create a ‘crown’ shape at the top and also reduced the amount of hair that needed crimping and rolling making the time of the look quicker and the stress on my partner a little bit less.

We began this time by isolating the crown area and creating four small plaits then we proceeded as before to crimp the hair, this time we added a little bit of hairspray before crimping to ensure a nice neat finish and also reducing the amount of fluffiness as the hair stuck together more and retained the texture better.

When we went onto creating the barrel rolls instead of free handing it we tried using the large tong to create the sausage shape for us and this was definitely a better idea, the hair after being on the tong was then the exact shape we wanted it to be and again, from the heat and a little more hairspray the shape held and less hair was able to be missed.
This was also better for my design because the tong ensures all the rolls would be the same diameter and this helped with the symmetry of the final hairstyle.
With minimal effort the rolls could be put into placed and pinned with a lot more ease.

Another struggle that came to light was that my hair is so short on the sides that the outer grips did not have anything to grip to, as we had another two weeks until the final assessment I decided that I would leave the sides to grow out a bit and then this would make sure, even if just slightly, that there was more hair to secure to.

The plaits on the crown were then pinned into place and we managed to criss-cross them over themselves to create the ‘crown’ on top of the head and I think this small addition to the style changed it completely and added something interesting.

We didn’t do it on this occasion but for the final assessment we will use Aqua colour in gold to paint the hair.

 

Changes to my design

Changes to my final design.

I decided that after the first practice session the hair needed something adding into it, I kept the overall design but decided to add in a 'crown' on the crown area made out of plaits.
This is way of adding in decoration but it's simply made out of the hair.
The plan then is to paint it gold with Aqua colour

Photoshoot hair - crimped updo

I recently did a photoshoot with another course member and for this I was involved in the hair for the shoot.

The first brief from the photoshoot was a simple sleek curled up do which i found quite easy to do, the model had naturally curly hair so I used some simple techniques of backcombing around the perimeter for height and pinned it all sparodically into the middle creating as I went along. for these kinds of hair ups i find going with the flow and easier way to do it, I had a reference picture to follow but I had the general idea anyway and I always like to put my own take on things.

The second brief and second look we were given was a 'Tim Burton' style look, so to change the hair we used crimping all over to get a good frizz to the hair and the colour was perfect for the look as well and we both said, although this wan't for out project, this would have been perfect for the Elizabethans.
There wasn't really a plan for this second look again so I took it upon myself and with some help, backcombed the hair all over to create good height and texture to the look and then we went asymmetric with it, I literally got one side of the hair, lifted the top up and pinned the bottom half under, on the other side the hair was left very big but allowed to drop and go more natural.

I really enjoyed my time on this shoot, it was however really stressful because there wasn't a definite plan to what we were doing, this is down to us as makeup and hair artists to ask for details but also down to the organiser of the photoshoot who should have given us more specific details.
The organiser of the shoot had a very vague idea of what she wanted and I think as someone in control of the end result regarding the hair and makeup I made some good decisions and interpreted it well enough.
The end result was good and the looks we created were 'perfect' according to the photographer so although I think organisation wasn't good at all in this case it did actually all turn out the way we wanted.
I enjoyed being able to use the new skills and techniques in a different environment as well outside of the lesson time and on something completely off track from the project.

Practice 1 - My design

Practicing my design with Lauren.

The first practice sessions went okay I think, I explained my basic ideas to Lauren who would be doing my hair and it gave her time to get used to my hair as well and how she was going to work on it.
We began by crimping my hair and then backcombing it to make it more textured for the design I was thinking of.

As on my design there were a lot of barrel rolls involved this is mainly what we practiced by seeing how tightly we could do them and the easiest way to secure the into my hair which is quite short, it was a little bit fiddly to do but it did work.

We got a better result from crimping smaller sections to begin with and then blending them together with backcombing before rolling into a sausage shapes around the head.

We decided that 6 rolls could be achieved, three on each side at the front which created a nice effect at the hairline and the take these over and around the head before meeting at the crown area and the back of the head.

I liked the overall result and he shape we created but I felt I still needed to add something extra to it as it was still a little bit simple.
We also need to find a way to make the barrel rolls more defined after crimping, retaining the crimped texture but ensuring the least amount of flyaways and a neater result.
This might be through the use of products, using different tools or trying some more techniques.

Practice 1 - Partners design,

First practice of my partners design.

Lauren showed me her design ideas for her hair assessment and I really liked the design.

It was similar to what we’d been doing and it would give me a good chance to use a variety of skills.
She incorporated plaiting for the perimeter and wanted two large structures on top using rats to make a heart shape.

Lauren has very long and very thick hair so I knew there would be some things I would need to do to simplify it for myself and be able to get all the hair into an updo, as this would be heavy and risk falling out.

I began by looking at the plait to begin with which she wanted it to go across the forehead from one side to the other and we decided together that to get a lot of the hair out of the way the plait could be really thick and also we could do a halo plait, which would go from one ear, around the back of the head and meet back the same point. I used a good two inches of hair from the hairline all around to create the plait and as I went along by the time I reached the forehead the plait had the thickness we wanted from all the hair added into it though French plaiting.

I then went onto create the shape on the top of the design which was hard to do because of the length and thickness of the hair, I curled all the hair which took a long time which is why only half the style got completed.
The plan for next time is to use a rat which will reduce the amount of hair to curl and also get it neatly out of the way into a higher structure, this will also help the overall look of the design. I will then only have one section to curl and place over the top as well.

The practice went really well and I really enjoyed creating something from a design, It was interesting to try and work out the best way to go about certain parts.
I feel next time we practice it I'll have a better idea of how to re structure the top and I will practice with rats in the meantime.

Design 3, Given to my partner

Design 3.
This design is inspired by the pin curls at the front of the hair on a lot of portraits and the ring shapes that line along the front, I thought with added height into a barrel roll this would look like a crown sat on the front of the hair, especially if the hair was coloured possibly gold.
Then plaiting down the center to seperate the style into two on top, but making the sides meet up and the back creating a semicircle around the head. Again crimped before rolling to add texture.

As I'm limited with hair to use with it being so short and shaved high up I've tried to include some different looks but I feel they are quite similar..

I have chosen the third design to use and give to my partner and I think we will be able to adapt it further when we find the best way to do it.
I like the effect of this one at the hair line more and it's a bit more interesting.

Two final designs

Design 1 

I based this look on an image I saw which is on my inspiration blog post.

The hair would be crimped all over and then with a rat underneath or just with backcombing made into one large quiff and taken back. Like what my partner did in the practice session previously.

I then decided to make it more interesting I could add some plaits from the front and place them over the top.

The issue with this design is that my hair isn't long enough to get a plait to run right over, once plaited it will be quite short.

Design 2 

For this design I took inspiration from how the hair lines of Elizabethan styles, especially the wigs are shorter at the front and then almost look like rolls which then work into the height on top, I wondered what it would look like if it was tiered over the top of the head in neat crimped rolls.

Design 3.
This design is inspired by the pin curls at the front of the hair on a lot of portraits and the ring shapes that line along the front, I thought with added height into a barrel roll this would look like a crown sat on the front of the hair, especially if the hair was coloured possibly gold.
Then plaiting down the center to seperate the style into two on top, but making the sides meet up and the back creating a semicircle around the head. Again crimped before rolling to add texture.

As I'm limited with hair to use with it being so short and shaved high up I've tried to include some different looks but I feel they are quite similar..

I have chosen the third design to use and give to my partner and I i

Jill Eliana Haley

Jill Eliana Haley is a make-up and wig artist/ technician I found when researching for inspirational images.
She specialises in wig building for stage and film including lace fronts and custom built foundations and she also works as a freelance makeup artist.

On her website she has a project based on the Elizabethan era and this was really interesting to look at because its really similar to what we've been doing. I like the fact that I've found something that relates what we're learning on the course and in this project to future careers and the outside world.

You can see her research images at the top of the page and then she goes on to show how she's created a wig and styles it in two different ways to show two types of Elizabethan character, the noble woman with blocked out hairline and the bedtime/night look.

I enjoyed looking at the images she's included of the styling process of the wig as well and how she's achieved the look. Although we are not doing wig work at the moment I loved seeing this.




Link to her page - http://jillelainahaley.com/index/#/elizabethan-era/

ref
HALEY. J.E., date unknown. Elizabethan era [online] [viewed on 5th nov 2015] Available from:  http://jillelainahaley.com/index/#/elizabethan-era/

Design Ideas

Because my hair is so short at the sides and the back I can't incorporate any kind of bun into my design so the inspiration I have been looking at are the shorter styles and the more top heavy ones, I want to be able to get a few plaits in there so my partner can show some different skills.
The easiest of my designs would be the one that is crimped and taken back into a very large quiff but this doesn't allow for any other techniques except crimping and backcombing really.

Some of the inspiration I have been looking at to add something else into my design are;

[1]

This was the first style I saw that would have been achievable on my own hair, apart from the sides being plaited they simply would be shaved as it is. But it would be possible to crimp the top and style into this shape either using backcombing or padding. I think this is a little bit boring tough and wouldn't really be using enough of the skills we've learnt.

[2]

Again this shape could be easily achieved with my hair but I still feel it needs something extra.

[3]

Looking more into the shapes within the hair and came across this image that I like which has made me interested in how rolls could be used in my design.
I wouldn't get the height but I like the effect it's creating and would make the design a but more intricate to have some seperate sections to it whilst still retaining height and texture.

[4]

In this Image Queen Elizabeth's hair appears to be all made up of small barrel curls rather than what usually looks like pin curls in the other portraits, this is quite unusual so I'd definitely like to look at using this in my design.
I'm not sure if I would want them placed similarly to hers in this portrait or more like the image above but this is something I can look into further when practicing.
Rather than the large rolls in the image above the smaller ones like in this portrait would work better I think for my length hair.







Ref.

[1] BROWN .N. date unknown. Braided updo [digital image] [Accessed on 4th nov 2015] Available from: https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/1e/d9/4a/1ed94a7aee1635186aa3e7f70796953d.jpg

[2] PINTEREST., date unknown. Futuristic elizabethan [digital image] [Accessed on 4th nov 2015] Available from: https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/c4/1d/af/c41daf284b9d13de4291ab67f1f9d64e.jpg

[3] PINTEREST., date unknown. Avant garde elizabethan [digital image] [Accessed on 4th nov 2015] Available from: https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/c2/2e/00/c22e00d0e7b26426220d3d9c22951d99.jpg

[4] ANON., Early 17th century. Queen Elizabeth I. [digital image] [Accessed on 4th nov 2015] Available from: http://images.npg.org.uk/264_325/8/2/mw02082.jpg